Meeting Exopto: Rioja, Reimagined

Rioja. The word alone conjures up images of oak barrels stacked high, rich reds poured by the glass, and family vineyards stretching into the horizon. But behind the classic picture there’s a new generation of winemakers rewriting the rules. One of the names leading the charge is Exopto — and if you’ve had a glass of their wine at Vagabond, you’ll already know why we’re so excited to call them one of our key Rioja suppliers.

So who are Exopto?

Exopto is the brainchild of Tom Puyaubert, a Frenchman who fell in love with Rioja two decades ago and never looked back. After studying oenology in Bordeaux, he moved to Spain, landed a job with a barrel maker, and spent his days touring Rioja’s vineyards. That front-row view of the region’s terroirs — and the stories of the growers who farmed them — lit the spark. By 2003, Tom had founded Exopto, with the mission to make wines that honour Rioja’s traditions but speak with a fresh voice.

The name says it all

Exopto comes from the Latin exopto, meaning “to wish” or “to desire.” It’s a fitting name. Tom’s desire was simple: to express Rioja in a way that was true to the land, the growers, and the grape varieties that don’t always get their share of the limelight. Rather than chasing the heavy-handed style Rioja sometimes gets stereotyped for, he wanted to craft wines that were elegant, balanced, and full of energy.

A different take on Rioja

One of the things that sets Exopto apart is their focus on old vineyards and unusual blends. Tempranillo is still the backbone, of course, but you’ll also find Garnacha, Graciano and even white varietals playing star roles. Grapes are sourced from small plots across Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental, many farmed organically or by growers who’ve tended them for generations.

As Vagabond buyer Colin Thorne puts it:

“Unlike the fat old creamy Rioja blancos of old, these wines have a chiselled, mineral style — fennel, orange blossom, grapefruit and crème fraîche with a nervy, intense vitality. White only makes up 10% of Rioja, but when it tastes like this, it’s a must-try.”

And the barrels? Here’s the twist. With his background in cooperage, Tom has an almost obsessive knowledge of wood. Exopto’s wines often see maturation in French oak rather than American, which gives them finesse, spice and subtlety instead of overt vanilla. It’s Rioja with a French accent — and the results are stunning.

Why it matters

At Vagabond, we love working with Exopto because they embody everything we look for in a supplier. Passion. Craft. A touch of rebellion. They’re proof that Rioja doesn’t have to be one-note or predictable. Whether it’s the fresh vibrancy of their entry-level bottlings or the depth and polish of their single-vineyard wines, Exopto delivers bottles that surprise and delight every time.

Colin again:

“Malvasia is coming out of the depths of the dark ages — and with style. There’s electricity in wines like El Bernate, with flinty, stone-fruit aromas and a saline, almost almond-like edge. It’s Rioja, but not as you know it.”

Wines to try

Exopto Bozeto de Exopto – Juicy Garnacha-led blend that shows Rioja’s bright, modern face. Red fruit, spice, and sheer drinkability.

Exopto Horizonte Blanco – Mineral, nervy, floral. Proof that white Rioja deserves a bigger stage.

Exopto El Bernate de Exopto Blanco – Malvasia fermented in concrete eggs; textured, flinty and saline. Limited, special, and unforgettable.

Exopto Horizonte Tinto – Tempranillo meets Graciano in a wine that balances power with elegance.

Why we’re proud to pour Exopto

Exopto represents the new face of Rioja: respectful of tradition but unafraid to evolve. Their wines are vibrant, food-friendly, and made with a clear sense of purpose. For Vagabond, that makes them the perfect partner. Because just like us, they believe wine is about discovery, adventure, and never quite knowing what you’ll find in the next glass.

So next time you’re at the bar and spot Exopto on tap or by the bottle, don’t hesitate. Pour a glass. You’re not just drinking Rioja — you’re tasting the wish that started it all.